Okay, still educating myself on canine and feline nutrition. But I am pretty convinced already that most commercial food isn't comprised of entirely 'safe' ingredients for your pets. And, if you have time and money, fresh food is a good way to go...if you educate yourself and are very careful (and can afford it.) A great article on why you should consider a corn free diet for your pets is here.
A few facts:
Reading the label. The first 5 ingredients are the ones that are most important. If you check, most of the cheap grocery store brands have corn or wheat as the first or second ingredient, and sometimes 4 of the 5 first ingredients are some flavor of grain. They will often have chicken or other meat byproducts as the first ingredient, though--which looks like there is more of that first ingredient than the corn. But that's misleading (see below). The listing is from the weight before processing...and unprocessed meat is full of water that is then removed when making kibble. So you may have five times the corn content as the yummy meaty stuff.
Additionally, the pet food of good quality should have a Nutritional Adequacy Statement or AAFCO statement and a statement regarding the crude protein, fat, fiber and moisture content of the food. This is really the place that you should pay attention to after the first five ingredients. You need to consider your pet and his protein, carb and fat needs to know if you have too much or too little nutrition. (see my previous post.)
Understanding the common terms. The USDA has a listing of common terms on human food labels here and terms defined for pet food here (in very intricate and confusing detail, too). But there are a number of terms that are very important to understand which you generally don't find on human foods, such as
- "Byproduct." "When a label reads byproducts, you can be virtually assured there is no measurable meat value in the ingredient." It can contain the bloody sweepings and sawdust from a slaughter house floor, or uncleaned viscera full of fecal matter, hair, hide, horns, bones, meat that is unfit for human consumption, or sick animals that die at the slaughterhouse and cannot be used for human consumption!
- Meat. The term "meat" by itself means there could be anything in that ingredient that basically comes from an animal--from intestines, brains, dead cats, dogs, lab animals and any sweepings from off a slaughter house floor or byproducts from other processing. And that can include unhealthy, diseased or experimented upon animals! So look for a specific meat types on your label. (There is apparently even enough wiggle room that byproducts can also be called "meat." Pet food regulations are vague and full of loop holes.)
- "Mill Run." The vegetable equivalent of meat byproducts. The hulls and stems and what all else that are left over from a manufacturing process.
- "Meal." Which is the condensed version of the named ingredient. From what I've read, you remove about 80% of the original weight in water and fat from the meat, which means pound for pound there is vastly more protein in chicken meal versus chicken meat. And "chicken byproduct meal" has more protein than the regular chicken byproduct...and may also have hair or other protein sources that are not digestible.
- "Natural." Gah. A useless word, but it sounds nice. "Natural" has not really been legally defined, but AAFCO requires a products labeled "Natural" to consist of only natural ingredients without chemical alterations, except for vitamins, minerals and other trace nutrients.
- "Organic" has been legally defined for human foods by the USDA. Pet food companies can currently use the term "organic" if they follow the same rules as applied to human foods. Note that natural and organic are not interchangeable terms.
- "Holistic" has no legal definition and is unregulated with regard to pet food. Any pet food could use the term "holistic" in marketing their product. The term currently has no meaning in pet food.
- "Human grade" is not an allowed term on a pet food label, unless the food is made in a plant approved for manufacturing human food. Because of this, there are very few pet foods that are labeled "human grade." However, this regulation doesn't apply to advertising and websites, so some pet food companies will tout "human grade" ingredients in their products.
- "Clinically proven" on a package or pet food label means the claim must be supported by two clinical studies. All Science Diet dry pet foods contain clinically proven antioxidants.
Oils, fats and preservatives. Well, the truth is, if you don't have a good grade of oil or some preservatives, you are going to have rancid pet food if it's sat for a while. And if you don't have a good grade of oil listed by name, you very likely have by-product oil or oil considered unfit for human consumption. It can consist of processing oil that's gone rancid, or old restaurant oil! Oils that are low in saturated fat and high in Omegas are good. Oils high in saturated or hydrogenated fat are not good, except apparently some argue that coconut oil and lard (aka pork fat) contain nutrition that is good for dogs. Flax seed oil or Omega 3 oils help with skin and coats. (Too much can cause diahhrea.) Fat soluable vitamins need fat to be ingested so that they can be properly metabolised.
Grain, while not evil, can be low in nutritional value or cause food allergies or digestive upset. Especially in puppies. Corn is the main ingredient in many foods AND it's the worst offender. Not good. Wheat appears to be better but is still not a really great source of food value for canids. Proteins are graded based on a value of the best biologically absorbable protein, which is eggs. On that scale, eggs are 100. Here's a list I found here that shows a list of values.
Grains that appear to be 'good.' From my reading, I see that unpolished or brown rice, flax meal, sweet potato, pea, chickpea/garbanzo, peanuts and a few other grains and nuts are considered good additions to doggie diets. Not best for cats, though, I suspect (yet many foods have corn meal second to chicken or other meat byproducts, meaning corn might be the primary ingredient in the little carnivores' diet!) Some sites say that feeding your dogs commercially prepared bread is good for them because the bread is usually fortified. Others are proponents of considering your breed's origins and using only grains or vegetables which were readily available to them back in the mists of history. (A not necessarily good example being potatoes for North American canids or white African yams for African canids.)
Veggies and fruits or not? Dogs are basically carnivores, although they are slightly omniverous. Some proponents of natural diet say that in the wild dogs absorb all the grains and fruits they need by eating the predigested grains and such in the alimentary tracts of their prey. But most sites that are not flogging commercial foods say that dogs can digest some veggies but not all the ones that humans can. Some veggies and fruits are high in fiber but low in absorbable nutrition, making them mere filler. (Thus the argument against corn, which is a fruit and not readily digested by dogs.) Others (such as beets) are so high in sugar that unless the sugar is reduced they aren't as valuable as they are harmful despite the high nutritive value.
Minerals and vitamins. If you decide to give mineral or vitamin supplements, you need to be cautious. For one thing, if you give a human dosage to a dog that weighs 20% of your weight (that would be a medium sized 20-40# dog, most likely) you might overdose the poor critter. Secondly, if you give an excess, you can make your pet sick. Third, if you create an imbalance such as with sodium/potassium, you can make your pet very sick or even kill them because you supplemented in the wrong amounts. So be judicious and do your research or ask a vet for her advice. Above all (and this should be common sense) do NOT use people vitamins! Certain supplements would be fine if you can measure them accurately via powdered form rather than in pills...but you need to use caution. I take powdered Glucosamine as well as Hyaluronic Acid for my joints. If I had an arthritic dog, I'd find out the dosage and try supplementing with the same stuff to see if it helps them, as these products are sold for dogs, horses, cats and other critters and are safe in the correct amounts. But not everything is, and the literature is apparently conflicting in some regards.
Meat is best? Well, it depends. For one thing, dogs and cats need their nutrition in different configurations, particularly fats and protein. If your dog has ever gorged on cat food and suffered severe diahhrea as a result, you will know what I mean! So learn to read the labels and know what the terms mean. The word "meat" with no descriptive can be anything--including by products. Meat meal is concentrated protein because the ingredient is weighed after much of the water is removed. Meal contains something like 20% of the original water content, so if "chicken" is listed as first ingredient, but "chicken meal" is the fifth, the chances are that your two ingredients are close to the same value or the meal actually has more protein/nutritional value in it! The Biological Value of the protein in a particular foodstuff is how the benefit of the product can be generally determined. First you have to know the type of protein and whether it's condensed into meal, is raw or is cooked. These factors affect the relative protein in the product. Then you have to consider whether the recipient can actually digest it. And third you have to see where it lies on the label.
The list below, from this site, gives some common foods and their Biological Value.
Protein Ratings
| FOOD |
PROTEIN RATING |
| Eggs (whole) |
100 |
| Eggs (whites) |
88 |
| Chicken / Turkey |
79 |
| Fish |
70 |
| Lean Beef |
69 |
| Cow's Milk |
60 |
| Unpolished Rice |
59 |
| Brown Rice |
57 |
| White Rice |
56 |
| Peanuts |
55 |
| Peas |
55 |
| Whole Wheat |
49 |
| Soy beans |
47 |
| Whole-grain Wheat |
44 |
| Peanuts |
43 |
| Corn |
36 |
| Dry Beans |
34 |
| White Potato |
34 |
As far as sources of protein created in the lab are concerned, here is a short list of some protein sources you can find in supplements common today. See how they compare to the natural sources listed above:
Protein Ratings
| PROTEIN SUPPLEMENT |
PROTEIN RATING |
| Whey Protein Isolate |
159 |
| Whey Protein Concentrate |
104 |
| Casein |
77 |
| Soy |
74 |
You can see that many of the common (read: cheap) ingredients in commercial foods are on the lower end or not on this list at all. That said, the high priced grain free foods have issues, too. A lot of the grain free foods have beets or potatoes, have objectionable preservatives, have a short shelf life, must be frozen, are difficult to find, or cost the moon.
That all being said (and if you are still with me here) the cost of the food that is grain free (which seems to be anywhere from $1.50 a pound to $4+ a pound) is better metabolised with less weight. Read that to mean that the dogs poop less because they use more of the food you have given them. You can feed them less kibble, so it will last longer, making the cost differential less...but NOT exactly cheap.
You can extrapolate for yourself how this knowledge of USDA label requirements can apply to your human diet as well.
I'm on the side of getting the best foods for my doggies and cats I can afford. When I saw that three of the top 5 ingredients in my Iams cat food are CORN I about choked. They are getting a trial batch of grain free food as well, because Mikey has been vomiting on a frequent basis for the past couple of years, and no food seemed to make a difference. Methinks I know why, now.
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